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IN THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN
Tromso is a creative capital
Pride Life heads for the Arctic Circle and the Land of the Midnight Sun
The offer of a trip to the Arctic Circle last summer didn’t, somehow, fill me with the wow factor.
I had visions of huddling against sub-zero temperatures in the frozen wastelands, dodging polar bears and with nothing but ice and snow as far as the eye could see. And all so very far away from my Islington home.
Wrong on all accounts. The stunningly beautiful and surprisingly warm Norwegian fjords 70 degrees north are just a three-hour flight on budget airline Norwegian.com, directly from Gatwick to the island city of Tromsø, capital of the Arctic.
This is the heart of the Land of the Midnight Sun in summer and the magical Northern Lights in the winter months.
Tromsø is proud of its reputation as the creative capital of Northern Norway. A haven for writers and musicians, the city also boasts a world-renowned university with a reputation for the sciences and peace studies.
It’s a far cry from its rather more controversial past. Travel back in time at the city’s Polar Museum and explore Tromsø’s history as the starting point for numerous polar expeditions and the centre of the Norwegian seal-trapping industry, thankfully outlawed in the early seventies.
With all that sea and hundreds of miles of coastline the fishing industry is integral to the Tromsø economy and most of its many gourmet restaurants in this northern foodie heaven specialise, not unsurprisingly, in creative seafood dishes.
Notable are the Aunegarden Restaurant, Sjogata 29 (www.aunegarden.no) curiously created from an old butcher’s shop, and the highly popular Emma’s, Kirkegata 8 (www.emmaoglars.no). This popular place is much beloved by locals who lunch so be sure to book.
Fiskekompaniet restaurant on the quay (www.fiskekompani.no ) is an award-winning example of Tromsø's fine dining and serves the most creative fish dishes I have ever tasted - and you just know it’s fresh from the sea that day.
If you like your fish au naturel the Ra Restaurant (meaning raw in Norwegian!) serves possibly the best sushi this side of Tokyo – mostly created, of course, from local catches.
Missing the gay bars? Actually as the Norwegians are naturally gay-friendly (in fact, Norway was the first country in the world to make gay discrimination illegal) there has never been much of a call for a “scene” as such as everybody just mixes without attitude.
However, the boutique Perez bar on Skippergata just off Stortoget is about as near as it gets to London’s Old Compton Street!
To get to meet local people, try the late-opening and buzzing Arthur’s Cocktail Bar. Oh, and if you fancy a little midnight culture the modern Arctic Cathedral across the bridge produces surprising good, secular, half-hour concerts nightly during the summer months. Sort of Andrew Lloyd Webber meets Norwegian folk
For most visitors to this spectacular part of the world, Tromsø City is “base camp” for exploration of the many islands and fjords.
Take a bus or rent a car across the bridge west of the town to drive along the stunningly beautiful southern road to Sommaroy (Summer Island).
The popular Arctic Hotel is a base for tourists keen to explore the hills and valleys of this island. Check local walks with the extrovert and charismatic manager Kjell Ove Hveding. But if he tells you a walk in the hills is “simple” take it with a pinch of salt. Stout walking boots are essential but the views from the top are simply stunning!
The island of Senja in Troms County is one of the largest of the islands and is easily reached by car or ferry.
The highlight of our visit to this spectacular island was a stay in the resort of Hamn on the west coast. Once an old fishing village but now completely renovated, this is one of the most impressive places to view either the Midnight Sun in summer or the Northern Lights during winter months. Check with the owner Christian about renting, with crew, a ridged inflatable dingy (or RiB) to experience over 100 beautiful small nature islands in the archipelago.
Hamn is also the starting point for serious mountain hikes around Sukkertoppen. They also organise photography trips and fishing safaris or scuba diving. But if you just want to relax Hamn has kilometres of sandy beaches. The secret is now out so book early for a very special and memorable experience.
This beautiful part of the world is simply surrounded by the magic of Arctic nature whatever time of year you visit.
From staying up all night with a sun that never sets to experiencing God’s very own light show in winter, this is a little haven on Earth that I just know will keep me in its spell until my inevitable return.
To find out more about Northern Norway viisit these web sites
Norwegian.com flies direct to Tromso from LGW from £39 one way. Book on line or call 020 8099 7254·
