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THE HIGH LIFE
Blowing the horn in Switzerland...
Cate Langmuir channels her inner Heidi as she gets high and enjoys a peak performance in the Swiss Alps
Over pre-dinner drinks in the bar of the Hotel Schweizerhof, we are entertained by the low drones of a man in traditional costume playing the Alpenhorn, the longest wind instrument I think I’ve ever seen.
The set up is typically Swiss, and the music is unmistakably that of the mountains. And mountains don’t get much more inspiring than the range surrounding the picturesque village of Grindelwald.
The Jungfrau Region in the Bernese Oberland of central Switzerland is home to such peaks as the Eiger and the Mönch. Looking dramatic enough to stand in for the Himalaya in many a Bollywood epic, these hills have also come alive for Hollywood stars, from Clint Eastwood to Sylvester Stallone, not to mention a Heidi or three.
I always like to get high when I visit a place, and having heard the horn, I need to meet the mountains that gave birth to the low, rumbling tones.
Luckily, the cutest mountain railway in the world is on hand to whisk you to the top. Literally. It’s not possible for punters to get any higher than this in Europe, unless they’re kitted out with crampons and an ice axe.
The impossibly photogenic train chugs up to Kleine Sheidegg, stage one in a journey from Grindelwald in the valley, to the Jungfraujoch, up in the clouds. The Top of Europe is the remote research station and visitor centre at the other end of the railway. It’s a Swiss big-mountain experience and the must-see around these parts.
The train actually travels up via a tunnel painstakingly carved through the Eiger, and opened almost 100 years ago. At two stages of the journey, the train stops to allow everyone to look out of windows carved through the rock. These originally came in handy as exit chutes for rubble from the tunnel build. Now we can take snaps in front of snowy wastes on the other side of the glass.
Once you’ve adjusted to the altitude – it’s not often we climb off a train at over 11,000 feet, after all – there is plenty to keep you busy. Step out onto the terrace of The Sphinx building for breathtaking views, tie a padlock to the “lucky” chain, or send a postcard from Europe’s highest post office.
Beneath the glacier you can follow a tunnel and explore the ice palace, while above ground, between April and October, there’s a 200-metre hike to the “monk’s” hut. Before you leave, make sure you’ve been snapped alongside the Swiss flag, at a height of 11,333 feet.
My visit was in the spring and I was happy to take advantage of some late season skiing in the sun, but the area is just as beautiful in summer, with the trains taking tourists up to heights of 6,000 feet, to stroll grassy pastures amid a snow-capped panorama.
The view is just as dramatic from Grindelwald, where I’m based in the traditionally hospitable Schweizerhof, aptly, part of the Romantik chain. The Eiger looms over the terrace where I relax in the late-afternoon sun after a hard day on the railway.
It’s a jolly resort, with lots to do, whether you’re visiting with a group of friends or someone special. In winter there’s skiing, tobogganing, skating, curling and snow-shoeing. In summer there’s hiking, golf, biking and river rafting. Or one can just soak in the sights, at any time of year.
Before I left, I heard a rumour that the Schweizerhof is keen to host a gay week in Grindelwald. Let’s hope the event features an evening with the Alpenhorn….
- Eating Gipfel Auflauf for breakfast at Hotel Schweizerhof
- Ordering Rösti with a view at the Röstizzeria at Kleine Sheidegg station
- Drinking a Mumba – a warming mix of hot chocolate and rum
- Experiencing the Swiss spa, complete with real ice for a cool down-
Need to Know
-SWISS operates daily flights from London Heathrow, London City, Birmingham and Manchester to Zürich, Geneva or Basle. Fares start from £77 return, including all airport taxes. Call 0845 601 0956 or visit swiss.com
The Swiss Travel System provides a dedicated range of travel passes and tickets exclusively for visitors from abroad. The Swiss Transfer Ticket covers a round-trip between the airport/Swiss border and your destination. Prices are £79 in second class and £123 in first class (correct at the time of writing). Call 00800 100 200 30 or visit swisstravelsystem.co.uk.
Hotel Schweizerhof, rooms range from cosy singles to designer chalets and your stay includes free use of the hotel’s spa and indoor pool. call +33 854 5858, email info@hotel-schweizerhof.com or go to hotel-schweizerhof.com
For information on Switzerland visit myswitzerland.com or call Switzerland Travel Centre on the International freephone 00800 100 200 30.
