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Vienna waits for you
Schonbrunn Palace,, Vienna
Vienna summons up thoughts of Schnitzel, Sachertorte and Strudel, Strauss and spies.
"The elegant charm of Imperial Vienna is still evident, especially in the grandiose buildings around the centre of the old town"
However, for those who also wish to develop their cultural as well as culinary experiences there is are a lot to offer – and there is also a very interesting gay scene!
Vienna, once the imperial capital of the Hapsburg dynasty which ruled lands from the Baltic to the Adriatic, was reduced to a much smaller country after the First World War. After the Second World War, although it was divided by the four powers, it did not suffer the same fate as Berlin.
Instead, it became a gateway to the East, being only 60km from Bratislava and 120kms from the Hungarian border. With this strategic position it became one of the three UN cities with many International agencies based there. At one time there were three British ambassadors posted in Vienna!
The elegant charm of Imperial Vienna is still evident, especially in the grandiose buildings which line the Ringstrasse around the centre of the old town.
These consist of the Hofburg, the Imperial Palace, the Art and Natural History Museums, the Greek Temple-styled Parliament and the Rathaus in neo-Gothic style.
(The gardens of the Rathaus also provide an interesting late-night venue for those who enjoy al fresco pursuits...)
The famous Praterstern, or Big Wheel, featured in The Third Man, and the Schönbrunn Palace are also well worth visiting.
Culturally, there is much to do with the famous Opera House and many concerts ranging from the very kitsch Wiener Mozarthalle to more modern pop and jazz events.
To the north, on the left bank of the Danube, is the UN part of town. In the summer there are many bathing places here, quite a few where no clothes are de rigeur - and that’s for all the family. However, there are also areas just for male bathers.
Gay Vienna
The population of Vienna is reasonably small at around 1.7 million, but, as far as the gay scene is concerned, it attracts visitors from all over the country as well as Slovakia and the Czech Republic.
Most of the gay clubs are in the gay triangle either side of the canal. Unlike Berlin, though, you do need to walk some distance between them, but the fresh air can be a good idea after the rather smokey atmosphere of the clubs and lack of air in the ubiquitous darkrooms.
The busiest club is Sling which opens earlier than the others. The Eagle opens and closes later and can be very busy. There are also more leather-themed bars in the same area.
One place not to miss, even if it is just to admire the beautiful surroundings, is the Kaiserbrundl Sauna in the old part of town, very near Stephensdom.
This is probably the most beautiful sauna in the world – it once hosted members of the Imperial Family - with beautiful ornate ceilings, rooms and men, as well as all the usual sauna facilities. It’s very clean and on a Sunday seemed to have a huge range of ages, shapes and sizes from all over the country and further afield.
The Alte Lampe is for the more mature man and the Café Savoy is a Viennese-style café for pre-clubbing chats.
As for eating out, there are the beautiful old-fashioned Viennese cafés for Kaffee und Kuchen, as well as Bierhouses serving traditional dishes such as schnitzel and sausages.
One particularly good restaurant, which features in the gay guide, is Motto. On a Sunday night it was packed. The tables are glass, the food is superb and the waiters are very cute!
Practicalities
There are many hotels in Vienna, situated all over the city from the grand Imperial and the Meriden to smaller pensions.
I stayed in Bella Vienna apartments which were newly-renovated and clean. They are within walking distance of the bars but ask for one at the back as the road outside can be noisy. The Trend Hotel Ananas is the best four-star hotel in the area right next to the Metro station.
There are lots of flights to Vienna airport from the UK. The CAT train from the airport reaches the city in 16 minutes and costs 9 euros. Cheaper flights can also be had to Bratislava with a connecting coach trip.
Transport in Vienna is excellent with a great underground (U-Bahn) system and trams and buses. It’s worthwhile taking a No 1 or 2 tram around the Ring to see the main sights. A day ticket, which will also take you out to Grinzing by tram, is only 5.70 euros.
