OUR LATEST ISSUE
SITE SEARCH
24 hours in... Bangkok
By: Lizzie Hodgson
Bangkok street food
TOP TIP: The boats can get very crowded, with some commuters pulling the boat’s rain-blinds to protect them from water spray, so secure the back seat for the best elevation.
Bangkok street food
In these days of ever-increasing global jet setting, many travellers will experience the dreaded 'stop-over'. So why not make it work to your advantag
"the real beauty of Tuk-tuks are their décor - bold and in your face"
MORNING
Tuk-tuks: Available on any busy Bangkok street, Tuk-tuks appear nothing more than a small open-sided three-person cabin attached (somehow) to a three-wheeled 50cc moped. And they are fantastic! Being driven in one makes for many a hair-raising moment, but they are superb for any short A-to-B journeys. The average cost for a 15 minute journey is around 60 Baht (£1) including tip, but the real beauty of Tuk-tuks are their décor – bold and in your face. Much like their average driver.
TOP TIP: Agree your fee prior to starting journey – and keep a pocket map handy to show the driver where exactly you want to go.
Chao Phraya Riverboat trip: Unlike the large commercial river boats we may be used to in the UK, Bangkok offers individual travellers the chance to charter ‘long-tail’ boats (named so because of their huge propeller shaft) often for less than £1 per 30 minute journey. Travelling up the wide, murky and often choppy Chao Phraya, you will pass magnificent temples, opulent hotels and dilapidated, inhabited floating ancient shacks. It’s also an excellent opportunity to view just how vast Bangkok really is.
TOP TIP: Keep some small change spare; a fee (average 20 Baht per person) is required as disembarkation ‘tax’ on most piers.
Temple of the Emerald Buddha: Situated in the walls of the Grand Palace (itself the spiritual heart of the Thai kingdom) the Temple of the Emerald Buddha is Thailand's most sacred site. With that in mind, it’s no surprise there’s a strict dress code: no bare shoulders and no shorts for both men and women. For those who need them, shirts and loose trousers are available to borrow for free. Changing is a small inconvenience once you start to walk around this phenomenal place. Built in 1782 (when Bangkok was founded) nearly every building is covered by intricate and dazzling mosaic designs but despite all this opulence, the place still manages to evoke a level of serenity. Just make sure you visit in the cool of the morning – all those reflective surfaces soon make for a blistering heat.
NEED TO KNOW:
Address: Grand Palace (2), Sanaam Chai Rd
Cost: 250 Baht (approx £4)
Opening hours: 8:30am to 3:30pm
AFTERNOON
Canals: Back to water transportation, but away from the river, Bangkok’s network of canal buses operate a hop on/hop off system at a number of stops, meaning these boats are pretty much like any road-based transport system. Sightseers aren’t the usual passengers, so destinations tend more to be for ‘locals’. But that’s what makes these boats so interesting. Simply pay a few Baht (13 for a 1-hour commute), sit back and see life as it really is for many inhabitants of Bangkok as home after home, often hidden under lush vegetation, reach into the canals on the narrowest of jetties.
TOP TIP: The boats can get very crowded, with some commuters pulling the boat’s rain-blinds to protect them from water spray, so secure the back seat for the best elevation.
Jim Thompson’s House:
What do you do if you like the look of a house, but it’s nowhere near where you want to live? Why, you take it apart and reconstruct it in your preferred location hundreds of miles away. And that’s exactly what Thailand aficionado Jim Thompson did to six different traditional teak houses, completing his mammoth project in 1959. But Jim didn’t just save Thai and Asian artefacts; he was also responsible for saving the Thai silk industry from total collapse, which is how the American made his considerable wealth after WWII. But what makes the slightly commercial museum even more intriguing is knowing that Jim disappeared without trace in 1967 at the age of 61 while on holiday in Malaysia. He may be gone, but his spirit certainly lives on…
NEED TO KNOW:
Address: Rama I Road, 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, (opposite the National Stadium), Bangkok, 10330
Cost: 100 Baht (£1.60)
Opening hours: 9am-5pm
Web: jimthompsonhouse.com
EVENING:
Vertigo Grill & Moon Bar: Situated some 61 floors above street level are The Banyan Tree Hotel’s award-winning open-aired Vertigo Grill and Moon Bar. As the names suggest, these establishments may not be the place for anyone with a fear of heights. In fact, the Moon Bar is highest al fresco bar in Asia, but if you love fine cuisine and fancy taking in the awe-inspiring view of Bangkok at night, this is a jaw dropping experience not to be missed. Dress code is smart-casual, but no open toed sandals for men or women. If you turn up with flip-flops (as I did) you’ll be politely given ‘slippers’ to wear instead. You needn’t be a guest at the hotel to enjoy Vertigo or the Bar, but it is advisable to book in advance.
NEED TO KNOW:
Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathon Road, Sathon, Bangkok 10120
Tel: +66 2 679 1200
Email: bangkok@banyantree.com
Cost: Three-course meal for two with wine 8,600 Baht (approx £140)
Web: banyantree.com
Patpong night market: Situated between Silom and Surawong roads, Patong market is the epitome of Bangkok’s trashy tourism. With goods that are as much knocked off as knocked down, it’s the fake designer-wearers Nirvana, so long as you barter, barter, barter. Just don’t go wandering off too far if you’re easily offended - the infamous ping-pong and lady bars pepper this area, with reps often using aggressive in-your-face sales techniques to lure you into their establishment.
TOP TIP: Keep your wallet close, your wits about you and your senses wide open.
