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San Francisco
By: Pride Life
Golden Gate Bridge
Golden Gate Bridge
It's impossible not to be charmed by the Bohemian beauty of San Francisco
"A convenient and a beautiful alternative"
I fell in love with San Francisco years before I ever visited the place, thanks to my teenage obsession with all things Americana. The city has such a colourful history: the gold rush, earthquakes, Levis, the Birdman of Alcatraz, Kerouac, Kesey, Ginsberg, the Merry Pranksters, the Greatful Dead and the legendary acid tests. Woodstock made way for gay liberation, disco and those 70’s car chases bouncing down those precarious hills and onto my TV screen 3000 miles away.
The Hotel Union Square (www.hotelunionsquare.com) makes the perfect base for your stay (. The innovative boutique hotel stays loyal to its art deco history, even boasting a Dashiell Hammett Suite, dedicated to the author of the 1930 classic “The Maltese Falcon.” The hotel is as much about style and comfort as it is to attention to detail, right down to the individually wrapped Jelly Belly Jelly Beans (a San Francisco delicacy) and complimentary travel notebooks.
First things first, invest in a City Pass, that will get you seven days unlimited travel on all Muni vehicles, including those charming cable cars, a bay boat cruise, entry to the aquarium and entry to the Museum Of Modern Art. They are available from the TIX Bay Area booth in nearby Union Square, where you will also be able to pick up half price theatre tickets.
As touristy as it may be, you’ll almost certainly want to hang off the side of one of the remarkable cable cars, as they climb ‘halfway to the stars’ before descending the impossibly steep hills, clanging their familiar bells. The Powel-Mason cable car takes you to the famous Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39 for all your seafood, sea lion and sea excursion requirements. The Powel-Hyde route on the other hand, will take you past the crooked Lombard Street to Aquatic Park, a romantic spot to watch the sunset over the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz, before enjoying a well-earned evening meal.
A ride on the refurbished antique F Line Street Cars, otherwise known as the ‘Pride Express’ will take you to the Castro and an area which is sure to be a central part of your itinerary. The most famous gay street in the world can cater to every taste of the pink palate, but visits to historic drinking dens Twin Peaks and Harvey’s (former site of the Elephant Walk Bar, which was violently raided by the police after the White Night Riots) are a must.
Make time for a movie at the historic Castro Theatre. The charming 1922 building features a Spanish Colonial Baroque façade, a plush interior and a Wurlitzer pipe organ that heralds the start of the gay-themed and camp classic films on show.
There are some fantastic vantage points to take in the city and the areas you would later like to explore. Telegraph Hill (the home of the fictional Barbary Lane in the Tales of The City series) offers stunning views, while the more energetic may also like to hire a bike from Blazing Saddles and cycle over the breathtaking Golden Gate Bridge for stunning vertigo-inducing views.
Of course, San Francisco makes the perfect warm-up for a two-centre holiday and while Vegas, LA and Mexico are the obvious choices, Half Moon Bay is a convenient and a beautiful alternative. It is just a short half an hour drive away from the city, through breathtaking forests and past crystal lakes.
Half Moon Bay is a gorgeous unspoilt coastal community, nestled between the dramatic green of the Santa Cruz Mountains and the spectacular Pacific Ocean. Boasting a classic Northern Californian small coastal town charm, the town encompasses renowned restaurants, quaint shops, art galleries, nearby wineries and redwood forests along a stunning shoreline.
The Half Moon Bay Inn, right on the high street, makes a delightful place to call your home from home, successfully mixing up the Hispanic, European and Californian influences. The stylish homely rooms also feature about the most comfortable bed I have ever slept in, while the bottle of locally produced wine on arrival set us up perfectly for the stay. For those with a bigger budget than this humble writer, might want to opt for the stunning Ritz-Carlton (www.ritzcarlton.com), which boasts breathtaking ocean views and no less than two championship golf courses on its doorstep.
There can be few things more exhilarating, or indeed butch than splashing through the Pacific surf on horseback following the miles of deserted golden sands. Sea Horse Ranch (www.horserentals.com/seahorse.html) has been in business for over 40 years and will cater to all your Brokeback Mountain escapist fantasies.
A few hours in the knowledgeable company of Half Moon Bay Kayak Co (www.hmbkayak.com) gliding across the tranquil waters of Pillar Point Harbour is a wonderful way of exploring the wonderful marine playground. Guides offer fascinating insights into the local history, as well as the bird life and marine mammals (including the brown pelicans and harbour seals) as you paddle towards the legendary Mavericks surf spot.
You are sure to have worked up a healthy appetite come the end of the day and there are no shortage of amazing gastronomic opportunities in the area. Sam’s Chowder House (www.samschowderhouse.com) offers up an authentic New England-style seafood experience and is the perfect spot to watch sunsets bleed into the Pacific Ocean. Meanwhile, Cetrella (www.cetrella.com) on the Main Street is without doubt one of the best looking restaurants I have ever dined in. Featuring award-winning Mediterranean cuisine, Killer cocktails and a soundtrack of live jazz, this is one seriously stylish joint.
Driving back to the airport, I was reminded of witticism that Oscar Wilde made about the stunning city. “It’s an odd thing, but anyone who disappears is said to be seen in San Francisco,” he quipped. As I watched Alcatraz and Golden Gate Bridge disappear below the clouds from the aeroplane window I was already feeling homesick for the city I was leaving behind. And should I ever disappear – you’ll know exactly where to find me.
