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Gay Travel to Thailand - outside Bangkok
By: Pride Life
Novice Monks
Juldis Khao Yai Resort
Novice Monks
In these days of easy international travel, many people have travelled to Thailand - probably first experiencing the buzz of Bangkok
"I am drawn to this place - the landscape, the food, the culture..."
My three days in Issan underlined just why I am drawn to this place – the landscape, the food, the culture… but most of all, the people and their sense of collective identity. Culturally it’s very different from the UK and for me this is rooted in the prevalence of Buddhism engrained into everyday life. They also love their monarchy – pictures of ruling King Bhumibol Adulyadej are painted on bridges, on billboards, on T-shirts. It is an ideology that should be respectfully acknowledged, as criticism of this support, particularly from visitors, will not go down well.That cannot be said about the Government. The nation is deeply divided between support for the present ruling party, People’s Power Party and the opposition People’s Alliance for Democracy – with violent clashes spilling onto the capital’s streets. Yet the recent protests seen in Bangkok should not stop visitors coming to this multi-layered nation. If anything, now is the time to show support to a country that in the last four years has been hit by natural disasters – the tsunami of 2004 that decimated lengths of the west coast of the country – and now faces further stresses with the economic downturn with the possibility of fewer visitors (the travel industry is the country’s biggest generator of income). It’s no surprise that the Thai tourist board have deemed 2009 “Visit Thailand Year”.
Still, a trip to Thailand needn’t be too costly. Sure, you could take advantage of the numerous luxury spa hotels that Thailand is becoming increasingly famous for (as I did), but there are alternatives – and a growing trend is to stay with locals, in their homes. It makes sense: you experience ‘real’ Thai life, while locals get a sound financial return and if you book via a registered agent it’s non-exploitative and safe, for both parties. It also brings back that (sometimes) diminishing feeling of true travelling – remember when everything was a new experience? This may just bring it back.
Having flown Thai Airlines direct from London Heathrow the previous day, I arrived at Bangkok airport at 8am and checked into the five-star luxury surroundings of Dusit Thani hotel. Slap bang in the middle of the city, this huge hotel looms over the calming Lumpini Park on one side (a favourite for locals), and the hectic world of Bangkok’s melting pot of street life to the other (a favourite for tourists). Once at the hotel, you could spend your time relaxing in the outdoor pool or taking a bite to eat in one of the 12 restaurants and bars. Instead I opted for a quick shower and headed out to experience Bangkok by day exploring Lumpini Park before the day melted into Bangkok by night, which meant one thing: the markets, street vendors and of course the bars, where anything, and anyone, goes.
The next day, fully refreshed, I packed up the pre-booked minivan with fully licenced and registered driver (easily hired through the hotel reception and all-in costs around 3,000 Baht [£56] per day, but this is negotiable) and headed out onto Highway No. 2, destination: Khao Yai National Park, a World Heritage Site in Nakhon Ratchasima region of Issan. The 260km drive from Bangkok initially offered mile upon mile of flat farmland either side of the road. That was until some 200km into the journey as suddenly, the road made it’s way through luscious jungle-covered foothills.
Whilst checking into the Juldis Khao Yai Resort a few kilometres from the entrance of the Park, it’s well worth taking the time to sign up for a fully-guided trek to take either that day, or the evening and the hotel reception offers bookings with approved companies. Prices start from 800 Baht (approx £15) including transportation to the Park. Even though it’s unlikely you’ll see the tigers, bears or elephants that habitat the 2,000 square kilometre Park, there are plenty of exotic birds, waterfalls and stunning views.
After being woken by a spectacular morning chorus courtesy of the local wildlife (my balcony was practically in the jungle canopy), it was back out onto the Highway, making for the province capital, Nakhon Ratchasima another 50km north, this time stopping off en-route to visit a silk farm at Pak Thong Chai. Here, in a small wood-framed ‘factory’ we saw Korat silk spun, dyed, dried and finally woven – all by traditional methods and seeing the process first-hand made my purchase of silk scarf all the more relevant to me.
Once in the small, low-rise city of Nakhon Ratchasima you have a choice of hotels – from the five-star Dusit Princess Korat to the lower-range, but good value, hostels. If you fancy the luxury of the Dusit hotel, it is advisable to book ahead but you could take advantage of one of the 15 regulated home-stay schemes at Dan Kwian village, just a few kilometres east of Nakhon Ratchasima. There are usually a few rooms available at all times, so you can turn up and book in - the average cost is 350B (£6.60) per couple, per night. This includes board, evening meal (either with the family or, if preferred in your immaculate but modest room) and breakfast making it a fantastic deal.
But there is another attraction at Dan Kwian: its pottery. Out of the village’s 10,000 inhabitants, 8,000 of them are potters. Visitors are welcome to wander streets and tracks to view the potters at work in their yards and out houses. Of course you are also encouraged to purchase goods but vendors here do not adopt a ‘hawkish’ approach as the majority of products are already made to order for the Thai, Cambodian and Vietnamese market.
The final day was spent at the ancient Phimai Historical Park, one of Thailand’s most important Khmer temples some 60km further north of Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily 7.30am to 6pm, just 40 Baht pp (80p) will give you full access to this site that dates back to 1100AD (16th Buddhist Century). As I wandered round the grounds and marvelled at the intricate stonework, I fully appreciated not only the skill of the masons, but also their dedication to Buddha and influential Khmer King Jayavarman VII.
Then, entering the central sanctuary, a small cool chamber in the main part of the temple, I was met by a statue of the seated Buddha. A few steps further, tucked neatly in the corner, sits a statue of Jayavarman VII, adorned with fresh yellow flower garlands – provided by daily worshipers who still visit the ancient temple. Yet another example of how devotion to both King and Buddha endures today.
It’s advisable to get to the temple early as you’ll want to spend a good couple of hours exploring the site before needing to take the long trip back to Bangkok. For those looking to travel on to Cambodia in the east or Laos in the north, you could fix a price with the driver to take you to the border control, or get dropped off at Nakhon Ratchasima and switch from road to rail. If you’re heading to Laos, stop off for one night at Nakhon Khon Kaen before travelling up to the border town of Nong Khai. Those keen to head east, catch the train to Ubon Ratchathani for one night and then switch to local bus for the final leg to the checkpoint town of Chong Mek. Be aware, you’ll need a visa and proof of onward/return travel for both Laos and Cambodia, so plan ahead.
The journey back to the capital took no more than six hours, including stopping for lunch at one of the many street-side market stalls that pepper the route offering the regions signature dishes such as papaya salad and Issan sausages.
Then, as the sun began to set, Bangkok slowly wrapped me in its hot neon embrace once again. But this time, I returned to the madness just a little more enriched than when I left three days earlier.
INFO:
I flew:
Thai Air
London Heathrow to Bangkok International Suvarnabhumi Airport
Return flights from: £630 (incl. tax) return weekday flights
Web: www.thaiair.com
I stayed at:
Dusit Thani Bangkok (nearest BTS is Sala Daeng)
Prices from 4,500 Baht (£85) per night
Dusit Princess Korat
1,427 Baht (£27) per night
Web: www.dusit.com
Juldis Khao Yai Resort
Prices from 1,860 Baht per night (£35)
Web: www.khaoyai.com
Need to know:
Highway Police: 1193
Tourist Police: 1155
Thailand Tourism Authority: www.thourismthailand.org
