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Tasmania
By: Peter Tatchell
Tasmania
Tasmania
The island state of Tasmania is the perfect escape for queer natured boys and girls
"Few places in the world pack so much sensational scenery and so many natural wonders into such a small area"
Gay Tasmania used to be an oxymoron. Not any more. Just over a decade ago, the Australian state of Tasmania had some of the most repressive anti-gay laws in the western world. Now it’s got some of the best.
If you’re looking for a place to detox and unwind after partying at Sydney’s Gay Mardi Gras, think Tasmania. It’s just a hop, skip and a jump down south. As well as being liberal and progressive, it’s pristine and beautiful. The words ‘wilderness’ and ‘natural wonder’ could have been coined to describe this spectacular and often surprising little island. Parts of it look like a down under version of the rugged bits Scotland, while the east coast boasts dazzling Tahiti-blue bays and inlets.
True, this is the not the place for party animals. The gay scene is small. But hey, isn’t it nice to escape the 24/7 metropolitan gay treadmill every now and then? If you want something completely different, try Tassie. I did and loved it.
The capital Hobart, which is the birthplace of Errol Flynn, is seriously underrated. It’s a spectacular cross between Sydney and Cape Town. The harbour rivals Sydney’s and Mt Wellington rivals Cape Town’s Table Mountain. It’s a 1270m high fragment of a now extinct volcano, which soars skyward less than a mile from the city centre. The summit, which you can reach by car in 20 minutes from downtown, is snow-capped much of the year. There are loads of breathtaking hiking trails, with awesome views over the harbour and neighbouring islands. Perfect for nature lovers. Try a hike with Wellington Wanderers, the local LGBT outdoor adventure group.
A lovely place to stay is the gay-run Corinda’s Cottages, three beautifully restored colonial period houses and stables. Situated on a hill above the harbour, they are conveniently adjacent to the sprawling parkland of the city’s splendid cruising area, the aptly named Queens Domain.
Hobart’s main gay venues are Taboo bar at 121 Macquarie Street and Flamingos dance club at 251 Liverpool Street. There are also several other mixed and gay-friendly bars, clubs and restaurants.
Tasmania specialises in fantastic seafood. Check out the Ocean Trout, Stripey Trumpeter and Trevelly. My favourite eating place was Lickerish restaurant (373 Elizabeth Street). Be sure to taste the amazing Tassie wines. I adore the Ninth Island sauvignon blanc.
Downtown there are many beautifully restored colonial era buildings. The old Georgian sandstone warehouses have been converted to cafes and galleries. Arts and crafts are really big here, and the best place to pick up a bargain is the colourful Salamanca Market, which takes place every Saturday.
Tasmania has a brutal history. It was founded by Britain as a penal colony in the early 1800s. Political prisoners, and people convicted of petty crimes like stealing a loaf of bread to feed their family, were transported from Britain to the harsh prison settlement at Port Arthur, which is less than an hour by car from Hobart. You can wander through the old convict quarters which were, in the absence of women, in their day rife with sodomy.
The other shameful aspect of Tasmania’s history is the slaughter of the native Aboriginal population. British settlers stole their land and killed any Aboriginal who tried to resist. Many Aboriginals also died as a result of imported European diseases, to which they had no immunity.
These twin tragedies are the grim side of this island paradise. But yes, it is paradise. Few places in the world pack so much sensational scenery and so many natural wonders into such a small area. It’s heaven for hikers, campers and adventure travel enthusiasts.
If you want a truly breathtaking wilderness experience that can be done by anyone with reasonable fitness, I’d recommend the Freycinet Experience Walk – a four-day fully-guided and catered hike along the Freycinet Peninsula, over-nighting at luxury eco lodges. The walk is through unspoiled wilderness, traversing golden sand beaches, thick eucalyptus forests and towering sea cliffs. I saw whales, dolphins, penguins, seals, yellow-tailed black cockatoos, quolls, wallabys and even Tasmanian Devils.
Another great adventure is Cradle Mountain (1545m), a rugged alpine terrain that towers above Dove Lake. Around the shore, you regularly see wombats, especially at night. The trek to the summit is strenuous but awesome, with lots of little waterfalls and lakes en route. Cradle Mountain Lodge is the place to stay. The five-star timber cabins are hidden away in the bush. Very private. There’s an outdoor Jacuzzi from where you have superb mountain views. Absolute bliss.
Fact File
Tasmania tourism info: www.discovertasmania.com (click on Brochures for a Gay and Lesbian Visitors Guide).
Qantas fly to Sydney, with connecting flights to Tasmania: 08457 747767 www.qantas.com.au
Corinda’s Cottages: 17 Glebe Street, Hobart (03) 6234 1590 www.corindascottages.com.au
Freycinet Experience Walk: 1-800 506003 www.freycinet.com.au
