SCOTTSDALE, ARIZONA
BerlinThere is something oddly exciting about going to a place that you couldn’t say anything about, let alone point to on a map.
Arizona, you kind of know, is over there in the western bit of America somewhere. And Phoenix, its state capital, you might know is where the movie Psycho begins, so you probably remember some high-rise buildings.
But Scottsdale? What, when, where and, most importantly, why?
1. Because it’s getting hot
And we’re not just talking temperatures, which average in the early 20s Celsius during the depths of winter but can often get into the early 40s later in the year (apparently, only Brits enjoy the hotter end of that spectrum – mad dogs and Englishmen and all that).
We’re also talking vibe. Everyone knows about Palm Springs and the cute gay energy going on there, but Scottsdale, part of the Phoenix area, has recently been stirring up a similar buzz with its swish new hotels – a W and a Mondrian as well as the classics – and visitors of the calibre of Beyoncé and Jay-Z, who honeymooned here, not to mention President Obama himself.
2. Because it has culture
Now we are not going to pretend for a second that Scottsdale is threatening to square the London/ Paris/ New York triangle or anything, but small towns like this do culture well. Mind you, Phoenix is the fifth largest town in the States, so not that small.
The Phoenix Art Museum is impressive and very well stocked with big name and not-so-big-name artists, while dinky little ASU art museum in the bohemian village (well, the downtown bit seems villagey) of Tempe, half an hour’s ride from Scottsdale, has its own surprises, which you can get round in 20 minutes flat.
Add to that the Frank Lloyd Wright masterpiece, Taliesin House, for modern architecture buffs and you have more than enough to fill time while your tan settles.
3. Because the gay thing is different
Gay bars the world over can seem a bit like... well, gay bars. Visit the Phoenix area, however, and you will be able to juggle your vibe. Scottsdale’s own mini-scene, which might be more mixed than you’re used to, includes a great hangar-like restaurant/bar – all glass and modern sculptures hung from the ceiling – called AZ88, and BS West is a large-ish club that gets packed at weekends and has outside space along with all the right music.
For the real Wild West experience, travel twenty minutes to Phoenix for Charlie’s, which has Stetson-wearing bar staff, no-frills drag and an outdoor volleyball area, while the Rooftop Deck at the Clarendon Hotel, also in Phoenix, is funky, modern, not scarily glamorous... and there’s a pool! P
4. Because there is plenty of nature
The egg-frying weather in these parts (it was a ghost town before air conditioning arrived) may not seem conducive to mountain climbing, but if you get up early enough, there’s nothing more rewarding than a hike up Camelback Mountain. It takes an hour or so, clambering over rocks between house-sized cactuses (don’t forget to take water) but the view from the top is worth it.
If you’re staying for a while, you could always make the jaunt to the Grand Canyon (well, you’ve come all this way) and there’s plenty of desert if you want to live out any cowboy fantasies.
5. Because you can eat, drink and be merry
The W and Mondrian hotels do the food and drink thing very well. Mondrian has Asia de Cuba, the internationally renowned fusion restaurant, while the W has a fine sushi restaurant, and both hotels have excellent poolside action, especially at weekends when pool parties are thrown, and thrown hard. Wildfish is the current buzz restaurant, frequented by visiting celebs and so dark and glamorous that the waiters use torches to show you your dinner, while for a completely different vibe, House of Tricks in Tempe is a ramshackle number that started out as someone’s home. The food is fresh and seasonal, and the wine cellar is one of the best in town