THAILAND - BEYOND BANGKOK
In these days of easy international travel, many of us have journeyed to Thailand – probably first experiencing the buzz and organised chaos of Bangkok before heading south to the party towns and paradise isles.
But returning visitors with a sense of adventure and a good guidebook could break away from the madding crowds and head north east to the little-known Issan region, just perfect for a three-day trip, and, for those with a bit more time, a great stopover en route to the north or east.
The cultural differences hit you the moment you touch down in Thailand. Buddhism, for instance, permeates every aspect of day-to-day life. The ruling monarch seems all-pervading, too, with pictures of King Bhumibol Adulyadej painted on bridges, billboards, even t-shirts.
It’s a country that does not tolerate criticism but the recent unrest should not keep visitors away from this multi-faceted nation. If anything, now is the time to support a country that is still recovering from the tsunami of 2004 and could be hit hard by the economic downturn.
My flying visit kicked off with a day in bustling Bangkok. Keen to explore, I opted for a quick shower and a day dipping in and out of the city’s restful parks and colourful street markets.
The following day, fully refreshed, I packed up the pre-booked minivan, supplied with fully licensed driver (hired through the hotel reception at a cost of around 3,000 Baht, or £56, per day), and headed out onto Highway No 2. Our destination was Khao Yai National Park, a World Heritage Site in the Nakhon Ratchasima region of Issan.
The 260km drive from Bangkok covered mile upon mile of flat farmland, until, some 200km into the journey, the road suddenly disappeared into lush, jungle-covered foothills. We found a true haven at the Juldis Khao Yai Resort & Spa, a few kilometres from the entrance to the park, and signed up for a guided trek (prices start from 800 Baht, or £15). Even though it’s unlikely you’ll spot the tigers, bears or elephants that inhabit the 2,000 square kilometre park, the walk is worth it for the exotic birds and stunning views you’ll take in along the way.
A spectacular morning chorus, courtesy of the local wildlife, served as a natural alarm clock the next day, and we were off again, this time to the province’s capital, Nakhon Ratchasima.
Some 50km to the north, the low-rise city offers a choice of hotels – from five-star accommodation to budget hostels. There are also 15 “home-stay schemes” at Dan Kwien village, a few kilometres east of the capital.
Of the 10,000 inhabitants of Dan Kwien, some 8,000 are potters, and visitors are welcome to wander the streets, viewing the potters at work in their yards and outhouses. Of course, you are also encouraged to purchase goods, but vendors are not hawkish in the least, as much of the produce is made to order for the Thai, Cambodian and Vietnamese market.
My final day was spent at the ancient Phimai Historical Park, one of Thailand’s most important Khmer temples, 60km further north of Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily from 7.30am to 6pm, just 40 Baht gains you full access to a site that dates back to 1100 AD.
As I wandered through the grounds, marvelling at the intricate stonework, I came upon the central sanctuary, a small, cool chamber in the main part of the temple, complete with its own seated Buddha. A few steps further on, tucked in the corner, is a statue of influential Khmer king, Jayavarman VII, adorned with fresh, yellow garlands. Such tranquil scenes mean it’s well worth spending a couple of peaceful hours at the temple before the long trip back to Bangkok.
Our journey back to Bangkok took six hours, including a stop for lunch at one of the roadside stalls that dot the route and offer regional fare, such as papaya salad and Issan sausages. Then, as the sun began to set, Bangkok once again wrapped me in its hot, neon embrace.